Daily Chronicles

Morning in Namche was, unsurprisingly, gorgeous—though by now we had accepted that everything along this trail seemed to be. The plan was straightforward: hike up to the Everest View Hotel at 12,800 feet, catch our first proper glimpse of Mount Everest and the surrounding giants, then return to town to visit the Sherpa Museum and the Tenzing Norgay Memorial.

The teahouse offered laundry service, which a few of us happily used. But the morning came with a small hiccup—no running water in the tea house - delaying our start by nearly an hour. Not ideal, but in the mountains, you learn to adapt.

From the teahouse, we began climbing what felt like a million stone steps—and then a few more, just to test our resolve. The trail didn’t really believe in gradients; it offered steep sections followed by… steeper ones. What kept us moving was the urge to see Everest.

Then came the excitement, the flurry of camera shutters, and a lot of heavy breathing—altitude does that to you. Our guide gently reminded us that between the delayed start, our steady pace, and frequent photo stops, we were now running behind schedule. Not that any of us was complaining.

At the top, we used the very basic restrooms outside the Everest View Hotel, shared snacks our guide had carried, and ordered refreshments from the café porch. It quickly became apparent that most supplies here arrive by helicopter—and the menu prices reflected that reality.

One of us couldn’t resist ordering French toast, officially the most expensive French toast of their life. But at that altitude, with that view, it felt entirely justified.

This was also the day Ama Dablam truly worked her way into our hearts. Closer to the trail than most peaks, she dominated every viewpoint—elegant, dramatic, and arguably the most photogenic mountain of the entire trek.

We descended gently into the Khumjung Valley, spotting our first yaks along the way—massive, calm, and utterly unimpressed by trekkers.

Back in Namche, we had a choice: head straight to the teahouse for lunch or visit the museums. Tired legs aside, we chose the latter.

The Sherpa Museum and the Tenzing Norgay Memorial were both well worth the effort, offering insight into Sherpa culture, history, and Tenzing’s extraordinary journeys.

We didn’t miss the chance to pose beside his iconic statue—some moments are simply mandatory.

Our guide Dilman had been advising us since Day 1: garlic helps with altitude. Garlic soup had now become a near-daily ritual.

In the evening, we wandered through Namche Bazaar, which was quietly celebrating Diwali. A few rangolis, some lights—it felt unexpected and comforting, so far from home.

We browsed bakeries and souvenir shops, bought essentials like toilet paper, moisturiser, and deodorant—priced at unmistakable “altitude rates”, far steeper than Kathmandu. Hot showers in our rooms—both nights in Namche—felt like five-star luxury, especially knowing what lay ahead. By evening, one in our group felt slightly feverish.

A quick clinic visit showed normal vitals. With some basic medication and throat lozenges, things settled down. A quick check by our Guide reassured us that everyone’s SpO₂ levels were right where they needed to be.

With warm dinners, full bellies, and medical thumbs-ups, we called it a day. Clean, acclimatised, and quietly confident, we were ready to climb higher.